Orpheus Island

Monday 11th: 0700 departure from Horseshoe Bay heading for the Palm Isles. The forecast was for 20/25 knot winds from the SSE. SSE was right but the strength was way off so we motor sailed. We gave Halifax Bay a wide berth as the air force use live missiles and bombs when it is active. Some of the smallest Palm Isles looked very attractive with a white beach protected by a coral reef but sadly no suitable anchorages for us. Casement Bay at Great Palm Island also looked inviting but we had heard that visitors were not welcomed and crime a constant problem due to the repercussions of the Aboriginal Protection Act of 1897 by means of which many groups and families were forcibly relocated from their traditional lands onto government reserves and missions, one being Great Palm Island. This indiscriminate and unsystematic mixing of separate and distinct tribes and families continued on the island until the mid 1960’s and the result is causing great difficulties for the present day inhabitants.

As we cruise north of Townsville, it is noticeable that the vegetation of the islands has changed markedly from those we saw south of Cleveland Bay. Rather than the previous rugged and very rocky topography, the islands from Magnetic and northwards are much greener and, especially in the gullies, lush with tropical rainforest and palms. Orpheus Island is one such paradise with some lovely deserted beaches fringed with palms. The only inhabitants of the island are at the resort and a small James Cook University research establishment. Little Pioneer Bay is very pretty with a fringing reef and four public mooring buoys, of which we have one. It is also home to two very large black rays, possibly manta rays, silently and endlessly patrolling their patch of reef. Shoals of tiny fish surround us all the time too and seem to be keeping us between themselves and the rays.